5-star hotel living as an expat in Almaty

Hello from Almaty! I've been quiet lately, so there's lots to say...

My 40th birthday came and went without much fanfare… I was in Astana (Kazakhstan’s capital city since 1997 – before that it was Almaty) teaching for 2 days. Even though I was all by myself without anyone I knew to celebrate or raise a drink with (cue the violins), I had a good day of classes and great students, and the hotel was top-notch (the pillows were particularly nice), so I felt good. And I flew business class, which was really nice – I could get used to that. I’m supposed to be able to fly business class most of the time when I fly on Air Astana, even when I’m not flying for work, so I think this job might spoil me for economy class, which I’m not entirely happy about, to be honest.

I’ve adjusted to living out of a hotel quite easily. I really don’t mind it, and I kind of like it. Perhaps it’s because I used to dream of touring the world as a rock musician and fantasized about living in hotels, I don’t know. Perhaps the novelty hasn't worn off yet. I think I’ve only ever stayed in a 5-star hotel once before (at Whistler Mountain, BC Canada – and that was only because Joanna’s friend worked for the hotel’s company and got us a huge discount).

A daily breakfast buffet is included, which includes everything you’d expect in a Western hotel buffet. I usually have a bowl of fruit (usually pineapple and honeydew melon) then a bowl of muesli. On the days I don’t work, I might get a bit decadent and have hash brown patties with baked beans. On workdays, I catch the Air Astana shuttle-van at 8:00am. It drive to the Air Astana office (adjacent to Almaty airport) usually takes about 40 minutes. On the way home, traffic is usually worse and it might take an hour. (Perhaps the chauffered transportation to/from work also makes me feel like a rock star. ;))

Because we’re on our own for lunch and dinner, I usually put some nuts and dried fruit into a plastic container to eat for lunch, but sometimes I go with the other teachers and eat at one of two nearby local canteen restaurants with the local Kazakhstanis – but there isn’t much to eat there for me, as a vegetarian, although a cabbage dish seasoned with spices (I’m guessing chilli pepper and paprika) is pretty good.

For dinner, there are a few restaurants around. However, unless you eat at the canteens I mentioned above, it’s surprisingly expensive to eat (and drink) here… Look at this list of the most expensive cities for expats to live. Almaty is the 30th most expensive place to live in the world (up from 52 the previous year, and it didn't make this list at all two years ago)! My favourite restaurant I’ve found (within walking distance) is an Indian place called Namasté, which is reasonably priced compared to most, and lots and lots of veggie options. Another is an Italian restaurant La Terraza. Considering I love to hang out at coffee houses, I’ve found a good one: John’s coffee, a chain started by a Danish guy in Turkey, is a 15 minute walk from the hotel.

To me, not being able to cook my own meals is the main downside of hotel living. I have a small refrigerator (I had the hotel staff clean out the mini-bar supplies), but I can’t cook here. A lot of Air Astana expats move into an apartment if they’re here for any length of time for this reason. Another reason is that if they have a local girlfriend, they won’t come to the hotel because prostitutes hang out at the bar every night, so they don’t want to be mistaken for one thereby avoiding judgemental glares from hotel staff. I’d imagine I’ll want to move to an apartment eventually soon as well, but in the meantime I’ll try to make use of the perks like the breakfast buffet, room service (which is reasonably priced compared to the local restaurants after factoring in the 30% Air Astana discount), and the hotel gym (I’ve been trying to ride an exercise bike regularly, but haven’t yet used the pool or Turkish bath).

I’ve been trying to learn a bit of Russian (all of the locals speak Kazak, but they all know Russian too, so it’s more practical to learn Russian), but so far only have a few basics. But hardly anyone knows English – more so that anyplace else I’ve travelled, so my motivation to learn a bit more Russian is increased – I’m hoping to find a teacher for weekly lessons soon.

There’s so much more I could write about – I’ll write again soon. But overall, so far so good. :)

Here I am in Kazakhstan

I made it! Since I arrived here early Wednesday (Jan 8th) things have been quite hectic and a bit of a blur. I’ve got my first day off on Sunday, then on Monday the 14th (which just happens to be my 40th birthday) I’ll have to wake up early to board a 6:15am flight to Astana, the capital, and I’ll teach there Monday and Tuesday, returning to Almaty Tuesday evening.

Tonight there is a party for all Air Astana employees which should be an interesting time. (Even though I’m contracted through a school in Ireland, Air Astana are essentially my employer, and we teach in their office adjacent to the airport). Apparently they happen only a few times a year, and they’re a big deal, so I guess I’m fortunate to arrive when I did. It's being held at some fancy-schmancy venue downtown. Interestingly, no spouses/partners are allowed at the party, which should make things especially interesting as the (free) liquor flows and the night progresses.

I’ll write more about my impressions later, and try to take a few photos with my new camera I got as a birthday present (thanks Jo), but for now I’m at work and should get back to my lesson planning.